Last night there was a horrendous thunderstorm and I was was afraid there might be flooding along the route. I can't imagine what it would have been like walking in such a downpour. But it was almost clear by morning. But the storm did leave its mark at a short area of road construction along the route, while still in Anadia. The road there was thick mud and as careful as I was, at one point my left shoe was nearly buried in mud. As it dried, my foot felt like it was being sandblasted all day as tiny particles of dirt worked their way into my sock.
Aside from that, it was a really lovely day most of the way. It was mostly on small roads with just a few dirt paths. After so much rain I didn't mind the absence of mud.
The route was up and down gentle hills and through tiny villages and eucalyptus forests. It's interesting how I could see a beautiful modern home adjacent to the ruins of something so old that trees were growing where the rooms once were. I thought it was odd that when homes fall apart they are not torn down. They just continue to crumble and decay until they eventually just return to nature.
It seems like almost every house has a barking dog tied in the yard. They do an excellent job of alerting the homeowners of passing pilgrims.
Cats seem to be everywhere but never appear to belong to anyone. Cats always seem to give that impression anyway, but the ones I've seen here never have collars and are all quite afraid of humans. They own the roads in the predawn hours I notice. At that time they are everywhere.
About halfway through the day as I reached Agueda, it started to rain. I knew it was too good to be true when I saw the clear skies this morning. But today it was gentle and I stayed dry beneath my collection of waterproof plastic wear.
At Pedacaes I walked across the peaceful ancient bridge over the Rio Marnel. Soon after, I crossed a very long brand new highway bridge over Rio Vouga. What a contrast. The first was silent and reflecting in the peaceful small river. The second was a nightmare of loud passing high speed cars and trucks. It was so high above the river that I had to hang onto my hat to keep it from blowing off. It was a relief to have that bridge behind me. From there I was soon back on a quiet forest trail through pine and eucalyptus forest.
When I reached Albergaria a Velha I had some trouble locating the small hostel I had booked for the night. I asked a random man standing on the corner and, how lucky, he said he was the owner. He took me right to it. They cooked a splendid pilgrim dinner for me. It's really the only actual official meal I've had since I left Lisbon. Much better than just grabbing a sandwich and a coke from a cafe, like the rest of my dinners.
The forecast is for rain the next four days. I hope it is wrong!
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